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What is the typical Pomeranian temperament?
The Pomeranian is a lively little dog. It is, intelligent, eager to learn, & very loyal to its handler and family. They
can be willful, bold and sometimes temperamental. If it is properly introduced they usually get along with other
dogs and household animals without any problems, but some of them seem to think they are much larger than
they actually are and do not hesitate to challenge much bigger dogs. It is an excellent watchdog with a
resounding bark. They are alert, curious and busy, one of the most independent of the Toy breeds. Poms have
a delightful nature and do not cling to their handlers. The Pom is a wonderful companion dog and show ring
contender. The breeds docile temper and affectionate nature endear it to many. Its vivacity and spirit make it
well-liked by persons who do not usually care for toy dogs.
What is the typical Yorkie temperament?
The Yorkie is without doubt one of the most appealing of all the toy breeds. It is charming and intelligent, and
despite its size, is full of courage, loyalty and affection. Although this breed is small, the Yorkie still retains the
true Terrier temperament. Yorkies are small enough to carry and are ideal for anyone with a small home or
apartment. The Yorkie is happy to go on quite long walks, but is equally happy to run around a small garden or
home, providing it has enough toys and distractions to occupy its lively mind. These are little dogs who think
they are much bigger. They will defend their territory decisively. They have an acute sense of hearing and will
alert their owners to the slightest sign of intruders.
What is the size of a Pomeranian and /or Yorkie?
Sizes can range from approximately 3 pounds to about 12 pounds, with the ideal show quality size being 5 - 7 lbs.
What do I estimate the adult size of my dogs to be?
I can NEVER guarantee the size that any of my pups will mature at. I can however give you my best educated guess
based on the past puppies I have had. In my experience I have found the parents size is not a really good gage to use
for my estimates. I have seen very large dogs produce much smaller then themselves, and in reverse very small dogs
produce larger offspring. My educated guess is based on the parents past litters and what those puppies matured at.
I have had a couple rare tiny ones mature at 2 1/2 lbs but that is very, very rare. Most puppies average 5-7 lbs as
adults. In my opinion if a breeder is claiming to sell you a “teacup” and tells you that the dog will definitely mature at
2 lbs, then they may only be out to make money. There are very few HEALTHY dogs that are under 3lbs.
What are the “puppy uglies”?
Pomeranians & sometimes Yorkies, go through a stage I call "the uglies". At about the age of 3 to 5 months, they
"blow" their coats (lose part of their hair). At about 7 months they start getting their hair back, slowly but surely. So
the puppies you see in here that say "uglies" are going through this stage. They will look awesome again when their
adult coats come in completely at about 1 year old.
What vaccines/worming do puppies need, how often do they need them, and what vaccines/worming do they
The first series of shots and de-worming are done by me. The rest, depending on how old your puppy is when you
receive it, are up to you. They will come current with all puppy shots and deworming.
First set of shots for SMALL breeds is for Parvo virus only. I use NEO-PAR, for this first vaccination
Worming - I worm the first time at 4 weeks with Strongid, and the second time at 8 weeks with Ivomec. Ivomec is
the active ingredient in Heartguard, and is also used as part of the treatment a vet gives to an infected dog to remove
the microfilaria (heartworm babies). In fact it has been found that if Heartguard (Ivermectin) is given to an infected
animal for 12 to 18 months, it will actually cure the infection. Most vets will insist that dogs have to be tested
annually for heartworms before administering a preventative. This is one of the most ludicrous money stealers in the veterinary industry! If the preventative is also the cure, then pre-testing is totally unnecessary and a complete rip
off!!!! Again, if you're vet insists on this test, find a more honest vet! 9 - 12 & 16 WEEKS: (This may be more than your vet recommends, but with parvo running so rampant now, I'd
rather over-vaccinate then not and have any puppies get sick from this deadly disease. I vaccinate for Distemper, Hepatitis, Parainfluenza, Parvo virus,.all in one vaccine, commonly know as a 5 way puppy shot. Under certain circumstances your vet may suggest a Lepto vaccination. If your dog will be around lakes or damp swampy areas, that may be necessary, although I don't give them to my babies. NEVER give a small dog a CORONA virus vaccine. Small dogs are to often allergic and the shot could be fatal. There is also a vaccine for Giardia, which does absolutely no good. It doesn't work! If your vet is suggesting any of these vaccines, you might consider trying to find a more honest vet!! Just remember when going in, no more than a "5 WAY" (unless like I said, your vet thinks Lepto may be necessary). I also, under the recommendation of my vet, only give 1/3 to 1/2 of a vaccine. A full vaccine is too much for a tcup puppy and I have seen some horrible reactions to a full one. Please find a vet that is familiar with tcup puppies and will work with you on this. Bottom line, the vet is working for you
and he does not have the right to argue with you. If you ask that your baby be given a smaller dose of the vaccine,
that is all he can give him, whether he agrees with you or not. I had a vet, the other day, tell one of my customers
that it was against state law to only give a partial 5 way vaccine!!! There is no state law saying you even have to
vaccinate for anything other than rabies, so I can't believe that a vet would lower themselves to that level, and lie just
to get their own way with a customer. Please just keep looking till you find a good vet. It will be worth the time and effort you spent looking, as your baby's life could be in his hands at any time over the next 12-16 years of his life.
Rabies Vaccine - De-worming
Spay or Neuter - usually done at 10-12 months
What comes with your puppy?
I give out a care package with each puppy. I always include a small amount of their food, their dish, toys, vitamins, their personal health record, a written health guarantee & bill of sale, and all instructions for care. I also want you to know I stand behind my dogs. I am here to answer your questions any time and give you my full support. I LOVE my puppies. It is hard to let them go sometimes. That is why I try to be here for them and for you if ever you should need help or advice.
Do you ship?
Yes I do ship, but only by land transport. Most customers use uship.com or citizenshipper.com
Do you offer a guarantee?
Yes I do. I give you 5 working days to go and have your puppy examined by your vet. The guarantee is for
hereditary problems and is good for 1 year. I will extend this guarantee to a lifetime period, or as long as you keep
your puppy on the NuVet Plus vitamins (ordered with the order code on my ad to the right) and a premium food. I
will NOT sell a dog if I think there is anything wrong with it. However problems may not present themselves in a
puppy until the puppy is VERY STRESSED, example: going to a new home. So, if your vet finds something wrong
that is covered by the guarantee, you can contact me and I will replace your puppy. You may have to wait though
for the next litter to arrive, if I don’t currently have something. You will be given pick of the ones I will be selling in that litter, that are within the price range of the puppy you paid for.
What is Hypoglycemia?
HYPOGLYCEMIA is the scientific name for a condition where the sugar level suddenly drops in a small animals
system. The first signs of this problem is usually staggering and falling over as though they are drunk. Or they can be
observed lying on their side paddling with their front feet as though they are swimming. If these symptoms are
observed, you must act very quickly in order to save your puppy's life. YOU HAVE TO GET THE SUGAR LEVEL
UP TO BRING THE PUPPY OUT OF THIS SITUATION. AND IT MUST BE DONE VERY QUICKLY. Usually you
do not have time to get them to a Vet before they suffer irreparable damage. Karo syrup is the best remedy for this
situation. If you don't have any of this on hand, then run about an inch of water in a coffee cup and stir in 2 or 3
teaspoons of sugar and stir quickly until it dissolves. Then you must get some of this mixture into the puppy. At this
point, you will find the puppy clinch's it mouth shut and will not lap it up on it's own. By inserting a finger in the
corner of the puppy's mouth you can pry it open far enough to get a fingertip covered with syrup into it's mouth. Or
in the case of the sugar water, an eyedropper, straw, or even dropping it through the opening in the mouth one-drop
at a time from a spoon. Once the puppy gets a good taste of the sweet substance, it will usually start licking it's
tongue out and will start to recover in a very short time. Please note that if it was necessary to use Karo syrup, this
mixture is also a natural laxative. Do not be surprised if diarrhea should follow when relieving it's self. If your puppy
is experience episodes of hypoglycemia, it is usually a sign that it is not taking in enough food or it has an underlying
problem that may need medical attention. Sometimes, this problem can be corrected by just stirring in a teaspoon of
sugar to the puppy's water supply, or putting karo syrup on it’s wet food daily until the episodes subside.
What is Coccidia?
COCCIDIA is an "opportunist protozoan" that lives in the bowels of all dogs. Did you understand that? ALL DOGS
carry coccidia. But something has got to weaken the immune system of an animal for the protozoa to have an
opportunity to take hold and start multiplying. That "something" is usually stress of one kind or another. A loose,
stinky stool that can even have streaks of bloody mucus in it usually accompanies coccidia. Some Vets will explain
coccidia to their clients by saying the animal is loaded with parasites. This is sometimes interpreted by that client that
the animal has worms. Coccidia is not exactly a parasite but can be just as hard to get rid of . A daily supply of
yogurt prevents coccidia from getting a foothold as it keeps a good balance of bacteria in the G. I. tract. So long as
good bacteria exist in an ample supply in the gut, coccidia can not grow. Coccidia is shed in the stool like a virus. If
the animal is not shedding it when a stool sample is taken, the animal can be misdiagnosed as being free of the
protozoa. If your puppy is put on antibiotics of any sort, feed yogurt to replenish the good bacteria that is killed off
by the antibiotic. It will in no way affect the antibiotic from completing it's job but may save your animal from
secondary infections caused by an imbalance of good bacteria. When coccidia does exist in the G. I. tract of your
puppy, it can easily spread up through the system and into the lungs and if unchecked, it can cause pneumonia and
eventually death. The first signs of coccidia are usually a lack of eating properly accompanied by a loose stinky stool
and sometimes escalating into bouts of hypoglycemia. Coccidia can be transmitted to humans if hands are not
washed and contaminated utensils are handled improperly. Coccidia should never be allowed to progress to a point
that the puppy's life is threatened. If your puppy shows signs of this disease, immediately seek professional advice
Are prices negotiable?
I certainly don't intend to sound rude with the following, but the prices of my pups are NOT negotiable, so please don't ask. I think trying to negotiate price is insulting, and you probably wouldn’t appreciate it if someone asked you to take less in your paycheck after you’d worked very hard at your job. If you have to negotiate the price of a puppy then there is a chance that you may have to negotiate, at some point, on the care of the puppy and that's NOT acceptable. Accidents can also happen and I'd hate to think one of our puppies wouldn't receive the necessary medical care they needed and would suffer unnecessary pain or even die just because the new owner's budget didn't allow for emergency care! If you want to only spend $350 for a puppy, then please find and BUY a $350 puppy. Our prices reflect the "quality" of our puppies and I am NOT going to sell a $950 puppy for $350 just because your budget won't allow you to pay full price or because you're a college student, or because you had unexpected expenses last month, or for any other reason. Also, I am aware of "scamming" by potential customers. If you're someone wanting a "FREE" puppy, please do NOT bother contacting me. I am aware of those giving a "sad story" (and trust me, I’ve heard them all) just to get a free puppy! That's why I, and any caring breeder, will always charge an adoption fee, even for animals that can no longer be breeders, to ensure that this won't happen. I would suggest going to your local animal shelter and saving a homeless/abandoned animal but... but even there you will have to pay an "adoption fee". So in short, if you don't want to spend any money to acquire a new pet then maybe you should consider NOT even getting one.... for the pet's best interest! Therefore, I reserve the right to refuse sales/service to anyone I feel would be an unfit parent to any of my puppies or adult dogs.
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